Notes from the forest edge
Trek reports, planning notes and the questions guests actually ask us on the drive down — written by the guides and coordinators who run the trips.
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When the rains actually help you
Green-season trekking: wetter underfoot, but short-notice permits, lower lodge rates and the family often to yourself.
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The golden monkeys of Mgahinga
Uganda’s other primate permit is cheap, rarely sells out, and buys you a fast, delighting hour in the bamboo.
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Packing for the Impenetrable Forest
The nine things that matter, the ten that don’t, and why garden gloves are on the first list.
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Uganda or Rwanda for gorillas?
Permit price, drive time, terrain and scenery compared — and why the best answer is often to trek in both, back to back.
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Bwindi vs Mgahinga: how to choose your sector
Families, crowds, gradient and the Rwanda-border wildcard — how to pick the sector that fits your trip and your fitness.
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What a Bwindi trek actually feels like
The farm track that tricks you, the moment the guide takes out the machete, and the hour with the family that goes far too fast.